Rangiroa, French Polynesia

Located more than 3,000 miles from the nearest continent, Rangiroa is part of the Tuamotu archipelago, the French Polynesian group of more than 80 islands and reefs that form the world’s largest chain of atolls (ring-shaped reef, island or chain of islands formed of coral). It is a mere 124 miles in circumference, and ranges between 2/10 and 3/10 of a mile wide. Captain Jacques Cousteau called it one of the most beautiful sites in the world, and we have to agree.

The island is buffeted on either side by the Pacific Ocean, but locals refer to one side as Moana-tea (Peaceful Ocean) and Moana-uri (Wild Ocean). All along the coast you see coral, most of which has been bleached out. We were told by a couple who’ve been here before that the coral used to be a variety of brilliant colors, but over time warming ocean temperatures and other factors not clearly understood have caused the coral to become bleached out or die.

There is an abundance of black lip pearl oysters in the atolls of French Polynesian, and the farming of these pearls is one of the main industries on Rangiroa. A more surprising industry is winemaking. Rangiroa is home to one of the world’s most unusual vineyards, with vines growing on the edge of a lagoon, right alongside coconuts. The grapes were brought to Rangiroa from various parts of Europe in 1992, and have been successfully harvested since 2000. The vineyard currently produces 30,000 bottles of award-winning wine every year.

The island has a flattened, elliptical-shaped lagoon teaming with fish. The water is an indescribably clear blue, shallow enough for the average adult to be able to touch the bottom as much as 300 yards out, and incredibly warm. The pictures speak a thousand words to the beauty of Rangiroa.

People here live a simple life – the houses have no doors or glass in the windows, and we saw no beds – only mattresses laying directly on the floor. Most cooking seems to be done outside, over an open fire, and there didn’t appear to be much electricity. There is no running water on the island. Each household must retrieve and store fresh rainwater in tanks. This could explain why there are literally no public toilets on the island. When Pam had the need to go she ventured down a road where a sign indicated she would find a restaurant and “pension.” She found three free-standing buildings, one of which had a couple sitting on the porch. Fortunately they spoke English. When she asked about a restaurant they said there wasn’t one. Public restroom? None on the island. Then they did a very generous thing: they offered to let her use theirs. And she did!

Want to get away from it all? Come to Rangiroa!

2 thoughts on “Rangiroa, French Polynesia

Leave a comment