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We first visited Bangkok in April 2017 as part of a land tour through China and Thailand.  The King had passed away the previous October and the country was observing a year of mourning.  This year the country is preparing for the coronation of the new king.  He has been ruling since immediately after his father’s death, but in Thai culture before the new king can be coronated there must first be a period of mourning and then the royal astrologist must determine the best date for coronation based on astrological considerations that will best position the king for a successful reign.  The new king’s coronation involves several weeks of activity, culminating in his coronation scheduled for May 4th of this year, followed by several more ceremonies including the Royal Barge Procession.

The Royal Barge Procession is a 700-year-old tradition reserved for significant cultural events.  A fleet of 52 barges manned by 2,082 oarsmen will make their way down the Chao River past the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and The Grand Palace to the Temple of Dawn.  During the procession the oarsmen will pace their strokes to the rhythm of beating drums.  Our tour today followed the reverse route the royal procession will take and ended at the Royal Barge Museum.

The Temple of Dawn takes its name from the Hindu god Aruna, often personified as the radiation of the rising sun.  It is a gorgeous massive collection of structures with incredibly detailed ornamentation that totally lives up to its name.  The first light of the morning reflects off the surface of the temple with “pearly iridescence.”

Continuing down the river we passed several other temples, including the Emerald Buddha.  Along the way we saw several people fishing, including some using spears!  We passed make-shift homes resourcefully constructed of a variety of materials and stilt houses leaning precariously to one side or the other, looking as if all it would take is one strong wind to wipe them away. 

The Royal Barge Museum is not a museum in the traditional sense; it is a covered dock where the barges are being restored in preparation for the coronation activities.  We weren’t allowed to take pictures while we were inside the museum, but Ken got some excellent photos from a distance.  Artisans were actively working on the barges while we were there, taking painstaking care to ensure perfection in every tiny detail – and there are is a LOT of detail!  Each barge is assigned to a specific member of the royal party, with a specific role to play.  They are outfitted with the same type of raised and covered cushioned seating associated with the litters you see royalty being carried on by elephants or four individuals on foot.  The barges are true works of art.

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