Indian Craftsmanship (Agra, India 05/08/2019)

After the sunrise visit to the Taj Mahal and the morning visits to Fatehpur Sikri and Agra Fort, Pam went to a marble in-lay factory and jewelry store where several famous tapestry are housed.

The marble inlay artwork Agra has become famous for originated in Italy. Visitors from Italy would bring gifts of marble inlaid with colored glass or semi-precious stones to the Mughal Emperors. The Emperors enjoyed these gifts so much they demanded their artisans learn this craft. This is the same artistry that is used extensively throughout the Taj Mahal. Today the craft is handed down from one generation to another, but only through the males of the family. Craftsman are very proud of the work they do and want to keep the tradition within the family; women will marry and enter into other families, taking their skills and family heritage with them, so they are not allowed to learn the art of marble inlay.

The factory we visited creates doors, tables of all shapes and sizes, artwork, cups, picture frames…you name it, they’ve got it. We were not allowed to take pictures inside the gallery, but the few Pam was able to take in the demonstration area will give you an idea of the quality of workmanship. The marble is made into the shape of the finished product and covered in a red paint that will wash off when the design is complete. The paint allows the craftsmen to better see the design in the marble so that they can properly place the glass or stones. The craftsman then carves out the portion of the design where the stones or glass will be placed using nothing but a putty knife. Anything else would be too abrasive. Other craftsmen take larger pieces of glass or stone and grind them down to pieces no thicker than gold leaf. The pieces of stone or glass are then layered into the design to create the finished product. Everything is done by hand. It is a very laborious process and the finished products are not cheap.

Zardozi embroidery is one of the most ancient forms of artwork. It was used to adorn the clothing of Indian royals as far back as medieval times. Elaborate designs are created using gold and silver wire with copper and silk thread. Sheikh Shamsuddin was a famous painter in India who was taught Zardozi by his father. He spent years creating the masterpieces that now live in the jewelry store Pam visited, kept in glass cases behind metal roladdens in a dark room. There was a collective gasp when the first tapestry was unveiled, but when the second one was shown, “The Good Shepherd,” the group was speechless. We were not allowed to take photos, but Pam was able to find some on the Internet to share. These 3-D tapestries are all done by hand and are made of nothing but fabric and thread. The shading, the relief…it’s all layers and layers of thread. Shamsuddin’s dedication to this work cost him his eyesight. Born with perfect vision and no health issues he was completely blind when he died.

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