Israel and Palestine have long argued over possession of land in this region of the world with Jerusalem being the biggest bone of contention because of its religious significance. Currently Palestine controls Bethlehem and Israel controls Jerusalem. The two towns are situated right next to one another; the only indication you are leaving one and entering the other is the border patrol station with armed guards carrying AK47s. Since 2000 Israelis have not been able to travel freely between Israel and Bethlehem. Only tour guides and Arab Israelis may travel at will – Arabs because of their connection to Palestine and tour guides because of the importance of tourism to both states’ economies.
This incredibly solemn day began with a bit of levity. It turns out Elvis isn’t dead – he’s alive and well in the desert of Nowhere, Israel! During the 3-hour bus trip from our port to Bethlehem we made a bathroom stop and discovered him drinking a coke inside this 50’s themed diner, “Jailhouse Rock,” blaring in Hebrew in the background. It was hilarious!
Reaching the Jerusalem/Bethlehem border brought us back to reality. Immediately after crossing the border from Jerusalem into Bethlehem we were joined by an Arab Israeli guide who walked with us to The Church of the Nativity, built around the grotto where Jesus is said to have been born. One of the many things we didn’t know before today’s tour is that during Jesus’ time on earth the people of Bethlehem lived in cave-like dwellings. They also kept their animals in cave-live dwellings, thus the manger where Christ was born would have been a grotto like the one the church is built around. We have been unable to determine how experts know that this is the exact location of Christ’s birth, but we’re told there has been agreement on it since at least the mid-200’s.
The church was originally built in 339, but it was destroyed by fire in the 6th Century. It was rebuilt in 565 and has remained largely untouched since then. Over the centuries the compound has expanded and now includes three monasteries. The church itself is built above the grotto where Jesus was born. There is a gold star in the floor marking the location of the grotto below. Visitors can go into the grotto, but we were unable to do so because a service was being held in it when we were there. Services are also held in the main sanctuary.
We entered the church through the “Door of Humility,” a small rectangular entrance created during the Ottoman times. The original door was more than 20’ tall. It was shortened to prevent cart from being driven into the church by looters and to force even the most prominent of visitors to dismount from their horses before entering. The revised height of the door forces any adult who enters to stoop to enter, thus earning it its name.
The Church of the Nativity is one of nine religious sites in Jerusalem and Bethlehem protected by the Status Quo, an informal agreement among religious communities that no matter what happens in the world these nine structures will “remain forever in their present state.”
Manger Square in the background 
In the States we have Starbucks. Check out what they have in Bethlehem 
Women are required to cover their heads when entering holy places 
Entering through the Door of Humility 
A service was in progress 
Check out the Fresco paintings 
The grotto where Jesus was born is directly under the alter int his picture 
There is a beautiful courtyard outside 
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