Puerto Chacabuco, Chile
February 4, 2023
Located in a very remote area at the head of Chile’s Aisén Fjord lies Puerto Chacabuco, Chile, a small, picturesque village surrounded by snow-capped mountains that serves as the area’s main port and the rest of Chile’s connection to the Patagonian Channels. A salmon hatchery and tourism provide the greatest sources of income for the roughly 1200 residents, with the recently introduced apiculture (beekeeping) industry coming in a close third. It’s a simple life for those who live here, but not an inexpensive one. Almost everything they need for their day-to-day life must be shipped in from other areas, creating a very high cost of living.
A short 15-minute bus ride from the pier took us to Aiken del Sur Private Park, a 618 acre privately owned nature preserve and botanical garden.
Clothed in the sweet scent of the Laurel trees (think bay leaves) and accompanied by the songs of the local Whet Whet and Chucao birds we made our way along 2 miles of trails to the Old Man’s Beard waterfalls. It was a chilly 64° F as we began our journey and our guide kept commenting about how hot it was!
Along the way we saw lots of beautiful myrtle trees (with red bark that peels), giant-leafed Nalca plants and the park’s oldest (and largest!) Laurel tree. The bark of the myrtle tree is so soft it leaves a dust-like powder on your hands when you touch it. Indigenous people used to use the powder from the bark to treat/prevent diaper rash. The wood was, and still is, used to heat homes. For many people this is their only source of heat. The Nalca plant is similar to our rhubarb. Locals eat the stem (though our guide warned you must use your hands to work with it; cutting it with a knife makes it bitter) and use the leaves for a medicinal tea used to treat cramps and reproductive issues.
This picture gives you an idea of just how big the Nalca plants are! This stream was relatively low on the day we visited, but it is teaming with trout, making it a popular spot with local fishermen. The water is so fresh and clear the locals drink it straight from the source.
An offshoot of the main trail took us to the 72′ tall Old Man’s Beard waterfall.
Our hike ended at the park’s barbeque pavilion overlooking the beautiful Riesco
Lake. We were treated to traditional dancing and a typical Patagonian barbecue, complete with lamb roasted over an open fire.
The views as we sailed away were equally breathtaking.
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