JodockWorldTravel

August 18, 2025 (Tromso, Norway)

With a population of nearly 80,000 Tromso is the first “proper” city we’ve visited since we left New York. Its many artistic and musical offerings have earned it the nickname Paris of the North, and its world-class university may explain part of its cultural diversity. The city boasts a population of more than one hundred different nationalities. There are perhaps two things Tromso is most famous for: 1) it is one of the best places to view the Northern Lights; and 2) it is home to the Tromsdalen Church, also known as the Arctic Cathedral. The Northern Lights are best seen in the winter months, and even then, our guide tells us they are only visible for 5-7 nights a month, and only on a really clear night. Hmm…how did they get this reputation then?

We are, however, here at a fine time to see the Arctic Cathedral. It may be wet and rainy today, but Ken was also here with our friends Keith and Kathy back in July of 2022 when the skies were clear and blue, so we’ll share some pictures from both visits.

There’s a bit of controversy regarding the mosaic behind us. It was not part of the church when it was built in 1965. According to Ken’s guide from 2022, the church was originally built with all clear glass, which led to some pretty bright services with the church facing west and the sun streaming in from the east. Parishioners took to wearing sunglasses as they listened to the Lutheran pastors deliver their Sunday sermons. It was decided a mosaic would be created to replace the original clear glass, but no one consulted the original architect. He was so incensed he never set foot n the church again. Pam wondered what all the fuss was about. She went in search of before and after photos and discovered that although there are lots of “after” photos there are precious few “before.” She found only one.

Personally, we think it’s a huge improvement. And if you understand the graphics of the mosaic, you may like it even more. At the very top of the stained glass is the hand of God. Three rays eminate from his fingertips – one through Jesus, the main form in the glass, on through a man and one through a woman. Maybe the architect was just made he didn’t think of this himself.

Locals are quick to point out that this church is not a cathedral. The real cathedral is located downtown.

Tromsdalen earned its nickname because of its architecture. Built from eleven aluminum coated concrete panels on each side it is intended to illicit thoughts of shards of ice or an actual iceberg. It can be seen from any point along the waterfront, or from the surrounding mountains. Ken took this photo when he was here in 2022.

After our visit to the church, we took a wet walk around town to check out other interesting sights we’d spotted on the bus. First up this interesting dominos-falling-down structure.

This is Polaria, the world’s northernmost aquarium. We’re telling ya, these people and their “most northerly” thing! We did not go through it, but its focus is the exotic and freezing waters of the Nordic North, and like the church, its design was inspired by the environment it is meant to honor. Visitors may see falling dominos; locals know a massive ice flow when they see it. They recognize in the design the way the ice flows push up against one another, breaking and stacking into a slanted fringe along the way.

Next to Polaria is the MS Polstjern (The Pole Star), a sealing vessel built in 1949. It sailed for 33 hunting seasons and brought home more than97,000 seals. It was also used in several polar expeditions. The museum was closed when we were there, and the area is under construction, so it was hard for Ken to get a good picture. Pam borrowed the one above from the internet to give you a better idea of what it looks like. The entire interior fittings above and below deck are original. The boat is preserved as a monument to the important tradition of Arctic hunting in the history of Tromso.

We finished our walk with a stroll through the pedestrian shopping area of the town, then headed back to the ship for some dry clothes and adult beverages!

Along the way we were reminded it takes both rain and sunshine to make rainbows!